Likewise, the Diamond Head hike is one of the most popular hikes and most visited state parks in the entire state of Hawaii, boasting a stunning shoreline view and a rich, varied history.

If you want to hike Diamond Head, you’ll want to get an early start to avoid the sunniest part of the day (the park opens at 6:00AM), but still hydrate, wear sensible shoes, and don’t underestimate the hiking trail—the 560-ft climb, including 175 stairs, over 1.6 miles roundtrip makes this a solid workout.

You’ll need reservations ($5pp) if you’re coming from out of state and there are fees for parking ($10/car). All in all, it usually takes 1.5-2 hours, leaving you with the whole day to still catch some of the nearby sites.

Table of Contents

• Hike
• Reservations
• Directions
• Gallery
• Natural, Historical, & Cultural Significance
• Things To Do Nearby

The Hike

Budget 1.5-2 hours for this 1.6-mile (2.5 km) roundtrip hike. Much of the path is paved and there are lookouts and benches along the way to rest. However, the elevation gain to get to the top of the cone is significant, clocking in at 560 vertical feet from the crater floor to the overlook.

The steepest portions of the hike do have stairs (99 of them in the middle and then 76 at the very top of the hike), making it relatively straightforward and safe. But it’s still important to wear good shoes and drink plenty of water.

Although it tends to rain more often in the winter and be hotter in the summer, this is a great hike year round. Many hikers go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the hot Hawaiian sun as the only real shade on the switchbacks is to be found in a 225-foot tunnel near the summit.

Weekday mornings are the best time to go, though there are usually some people already lined up when the park opens at 6AM. And again, don’t underestimate how challenging hiking Diamond Head can be! Be sure to bring a hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen.

An audio hiking tour is available from the Visitor Center for $4—a good way to learn much of the geological, ecological, and historical significance of Diamond Head, including why Native Hawaiians considered the area sacred.

Some local tour guides and tour companies do offer guided hikes of Diamond Head and other nearby sites. A quick online search will also find you shuttles to the trailhead from Waikiki so you donʻt have to bother with parking.

Reservations

Head to the Division of State Parks website to make your reservation to hike Diamond Head if you’re carrying an out-of-state ID. Reservations are available 365 days a year and cost $5 per non-Hawaii resident.

Children under three and Hawaii residents (with a Hawaii ID or driver’s license) enter for free. Itʻs recommended to book your reservation at least a week in advance to make sure you have access to the times you want.

Parking at Diamond Head State Monument can be challenging and there’s an additional $10 per vehicle parking charge inside the crater, so you might consider getting there by bus, shuttle, trolley, taxi or rideshare, instead.

On days when the parking lot is full, it’s also possible to park on Diamond Head Road and walk the 5-10 minutes to the crater. Arriving before 9AM or after 2PM is recommended to help make sure you can find a spot.

Gates open at 6AM and close at 6PM. The latest you can head up on the trail, however, is 4:00PM.

Directions

Driving from Waikiki:

1. Head southeast on Kalakaua Ave toward Uluniu Ave – 0.3 mi
2. Turn left onto Kapahulu Ave – 0.6 mi
3. Turn right onto Castle St – 0.3 mi
4. Turn right onto 6th Ave – 246 ft
5. Continue onto Alohea Ave – 0.6 mi
6. Turn right onto Makapuu Ave – 272 ft
7. Turn left onto Diamond Head Rd – 0.3 mi
8. Turn right – 0.3 mi
9. Continue onto Diamond Head Tunnel – 0.3 mi
10. Turn left

By bus:

The 23 bus on Kuhio Avenue will take you to the Diamond Head State Monument bus stop. From there, it’s a 10-minute walk to get to the start of the trail. Visit the Bus site for up-to-date fares and schedules.

Diamond Head’s Natural, Historical, & Cultural Significance

The Diamond Head crater was created around 300,000 years ago by a single eruption, part of the Koolau Range of volcanoes that began on the sea floor more than 2.6 million years ago.

The crater floor encompasses 350 acres and its peak stands at an elevation of 762 feet above sea level (though it’s only 560 feet from the crater floor to the overlook).

The saucer-shaped crater was formed by an explosive eruption that sent ash and fine particles flying into the air. As they settled, these materials formed a kind of rock called tuff, which created the crater and can be seen all around it.

Most of the vegetation and birds of the area were introduced in the late 1800s to early 1900s. A stunning view of the shoreline from Koko Head to Waianae is visible from the summit and, during the winter, passing humpback whales can also be seen.

Diamond Head’s Native Hawaiian name, Leahi, means “brow of the tuna” and refers to the iconic profile of the crater’s outer slopes. The name Diamond Head came from 19th century British sailors who mistook the shiny calcite crystals on the crater’s slopes for diamonds.

In 1905, the US Government purchased Diamond Head and some of the surrounding areas, developing 720 acres into Fort Ruger as part of Oahu’s coast artillery defense.

As the US’s first military reservation, the site has hosted tunnels, batteries, anti-aircraft weapons, a National Guard emergency operations center, and the Hawaii State Civil Defense Headquarters. Some of these installations still remain today, including the Fire Control Station built in 1911, which follows the 225-foot tunnel near the summit. At the summit, you’ll also see bunkers and a huge navigation lighthouse built in 1917.

Things To Do Nearby

Several food trucks serve snacks and cold drinks 6AM to 4PM by the Visitor Center, but you may want to save your appetite for one of the great local eateries like Rainbow Drive-In, Ono Seafood, Tonkatsu Tamafuji, Tokkuri Tei, Guava Smoked, and Side Street Inn on nearby Kapahulu Avenue.

Even closer, Monsarrat Avenue boasts a bunch of good restaurants, including Pioneer Saloon, Cafe Moreyʻs, and the Diamond Head Market & Grill. On Tuesday and Saturday mornings, you can also catch the Kapiolani Community College Farmer’s Market right behind Diamond Head.

If you still have energy for walking and seeing the sights, then head over to Kapiolani Regional Park, where you’ll find plenty of picnic tables and local families. Waikiki Aquarium and the Honolulu Zoo are close by, as are Kuhio Beach and Waikiki Beach.

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However, the beloved visitor destination—which has only increased in popularity in recent years—will be making new changes to preserve the landmark’s beauty and reduce visitor impact. State officials recently released a new policy that will go into effect on May 12, which will require visitors and those coming in from out-of-state to make reservations ahead of time to visit Diamond Head. Officials say these new rules will be used to combat and control damage to the environment and infrastructure, congestion on hiking trails, heavy vehicle traffic and illegal parking in the area.

Visitors will be able to make reservations into the park up to 14 days in advance of their visit beginning on April 28, 2022. The entry-free is $5, and parking is $10 per vehicle. The reservation system as well as additional information can be found on the DLNR’s website.

The need for reservations to access locations Hawaiʻi is not a new practice, as both Hāʻena State Park on Kauaʻi and Waiʻānapanapa State Park on Maui have also added similar systems for visitors. Both parks had cited concerns that over tourism were negatively affecting the quality of the area.

Residents of Hawaiʻi will still be allowed to enter the park without reservation and free-of-charge, however parking is limited. “We want to reduce the impact of visitors and really ensure that our residents have access to these desirable places,” Hawaiʻi Gov. David Ige said to the media. “We can control the numbers of people who visit a particular place so they can more easily be spread out across the day.”

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If you know where to go, most hikes can be done without a guide. Some can easily be reached with a short Uber or Lyft ride from Waikiki or even a shuttle service, if your hotel provides.

Makapuu Point Lighthouse Trail

Another easy hike is the Makapuʻu Point lighthouse trail just past Sandy Beach on the east side of the island. It’s a paved, 1-mile trip to the top overlooking the lighthouse with stops along the way to whale watch during winter months. Makapuʻu is a child-friendly hike with a moderate incline.

Lanikai Pillboxes

For another easy climb with scenic views, check out the Lanikai Pillboxes trail above the Lanikai Loop. After a short trek to the top, hikers get an incredible view of the Mokulua Islands a mile offshore as well as Kailua, Enchanted Lake and the windward coast.

Pink Pillbox/Ma’ili Pillbox

Pink Pillbox/Ma’ili Pillbox (Pu’u O Hulu Trail) is a 1.6 mile heavily trafficked out and back trail located near Waianae, Oahu, Hawaii that features stunning views and is moderate in difficulty. This is a dog friendly trail!

Diamond Head

The most popular hike is the Diamond Head State Monument, just above the outskirts of Waikiki. Flip over a Hawaiʻi state quarter, and you’ll see this iconic crater overlooking the Pacific Ocean. It’s an easy hike except for the final 200 steps that are known to be steep. The payoff is an incredible view of the surrounding cities and skyline, as well as miles of pristine coastline.

Aiea Loop Trail

Those ready for a more moderate, longer hike should check out the Aiea Loop trail, a 4.5-mile trail running through the Keaiwa Heiau State Recreation Area where remnants of a B-24 bomber that crashed in 1944 remain.

Manoa Falls

For a dip under a waterfall, Manoa Falls is a 1.6-mile trail through a rainforest to a 150-foot waterfall, while Maunawili Falls off the Pali Highway is a 3-mile trek through a rainforest and stream that can get muddy, but gives hikers the chance to bask in the water at the end.

Stairway to Heaven vs. Olomana Trail

Extreme hikers will be disappointed to learn that the Stairway to Heaven is closed and the entrance is guarded by security. But don’t sweat it; the nearby Three Peaks hike is a challenging replacement on the Olomana Trail. It’s a 4.1-mile trek with dangerously narrow ridges, steep inclines where ropes are needed, and a little rock climbing. This hike is not for beginners or the faint of heart. Once at the top you’ll have to do it all over again on the way down, so be prepared.

Group and Private Hiking Tours

There are hundreds of hiking trails and hidden waterfalls on Oʻahu, and tour companies such as Oahu Nature Tours, West Oahu SUP & Sport, Adventure Tours Hawaii offer group and private tours for more chances to explore.

Hiking Tips

On all O‘ahu hikes, remember to bring plenty of water and wear a hat and sunscreen because the tropical heat can be exhausting. Don’t leave any valuables in your car while hiking. Instead, put them in the trunk or take them along. And don’t forget an extra set of shoes because rainforest hikes can get muddy.

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Photo: Rasa Fournier.

Heading to lush and lovely Pupukea’s forested hills on Oahu’s North Shore, my husband suggests that we make a detour. Waimea’s massive waves are going off, and he knows a nearby heiau or traditional Hawaiian temple that overlooks the bay.

“A heiau in Pupukea?” I ask, perking up.

Puu O Mahuka Heiau

Photo: Rasa Fournier.

I’ve been camping in the area since I was a kid, I’ve hiked out here often, and I’ve sent my kids to camp out here. Yet I’ve never heard of Pu’u O Mahuka Heiau. We arrive at a promontory and I gasp. Spread out in front of me as far as my eyes can see is a rectangular rock wall — remnant foundational stones of the island’s largest heiau, spilled over in disarray, as ruins are wont to do. Along these stone ledges, the people of Hawaii once gathered in attendance of rituals that included human sacrifice.

A posted plaque officially labels the place a national historic landmark. Descriptive boards depict a likeness of the village 250 years ago, with a central tower for communication between god and ali’i or chief, an area where offerings were placed, and others for housing sacred drums, water, fire, an altar and sacred objects. The area’s fresh waters, fertile soil, teeming ocean and shoreline characteristics conducive to surfing and canoeing, attracted the island’s chiefs to spend time in this Waimea ahupuaʻa or land division.

Photo: Rasa Fournier.

Ceremony prospered here throughout the 1700s, but the heiau fell into disuse at the turn of the 1800s, with the arrival of missionaries. Today, I stand transfixed by this rectangle tattooed into the land and by the scattered rocks that make up its inner labyrinth, and by thoughts of the cultural activities that once prospered in this now quiet, conspicuously empty spot.

Photo: Rasa Fournier.

A cement path runs parallel to the the western wall of the structure, extending toward the ocean. I follow it into high grass and am amazed to see the wall continuing well further than expected.

Views of Waimea Bay

Photo: Rasa Fournier.

The path takes me to an outlook with VIP views of one of nature’s most spectacular, big wave arenas. Walking with the heiau to my left, the ocean to my right, I catch a series of overlooks sporting impossible visions of blue sky, blue water beauty. Waimea winds whoosh over me, caressing me into a pensive lull. Gazing out at that historic bay, a shiver run up my spine. Behind me is a place of legend and before me, one of the world’s most legendary surf breaks. An area of peace and tumult, waves and worship, past connecting with present.

“Worship,” I whisper to the breeze, as I complete my circumambulation of the heiau — leftover veins that map the earth, hinting at the majesty that once coursed through this land. Down below, now out of sight, mammoth waves pound their sacred drumbeat against the sand.

TRAIL: Puu O Mahuka Heiau

LENGTH: half-mile loop

HOW TO GET THERE: From Waikiki, get on H-1 heading west. Continue as it merges with H-201. Take the H-2 exit heading north and continue onto HI-99 (Kamehameha Highway), and veer right onto HI-83 (still Kamehameha Highway). Make a right onto Pupukea Road, and turn again onto the first street on your right, Puu O Mahuka. The street dead-ends at the heiau.

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Walk along the paved Kawai Nui Marsh path in Kailua and it’s mostly quiet, with occasional fellow walkers, joggers, bicyclists and families with baby strollers passing reverently by. “Kawai,” referring to water, and “nui” meaning big or abundant, references the 830 acres of protected wetlands that stretch from the path, which is really a flood control levee, to the foot of the ever-magnificent Koolau Mountain Range. In other words, out walking the marsh, you really get the feeling of being in nature’s spellbinding cathedral, complete with bird-hymn.

The marsh is home to numerous migratory, introduced and indigenous waterbirds, including the endangered Hawaiian stilt (aeo), coot (alae keokeo), duck (koloa) and moorhen (alae ula). While there’s birdwatching aplenty, the marsh also boasts dozens of species of fish and other aquatic life, as well as rare, native flora. Kawai Nui was once a thriving fishpond for ancient Hawaiians and is now not only a significant habitat for native species, but also the largest wetland in the state and an important watershed.

I find myself drawn to the marsh after a Kailua farmer’s market visit, where I’ve sipped down a refreshing bottle of leafy veggies blended with mango and ice. I maintain a clipped walk along the shadeless path, under very cloudy skies at noontime (not recommended ― I have the red skin to prove it), and my mind marvels at the wonderment of wildlife teaming in that mass of waterlogged greenery. I watch ducks floating among the reeds and stilt-legged birds that are pecking at the grass one moment picturesquely take flight the next. And I think of a near-travesty a Kailua historian once recounted:

Decades of yore, in the overenthusiastic days of giddy commercialization, when stewardship and sustainability were barely a blip in public consciousness, this very marsh was in the planning stages of becoming but an ambient background for a shopping complex. The structure would be built on a raised platform overlooking what is now a Ramsar-protected (international wetlands conservation treaty) site.

Reading newspaper accounts and community bulletins over the years of how much the Kailua community has done to restore, protect and maintain the area, makes the walk that much sweeter. This is generally my early morning or late afternoon comfort walk, the go-to place for pulling my car right up to beauty’s edge and strolling right in, rather than gearing up for a whole hike. Step after step, I breathe deeply, gaze across this expanse of land that is neither forest nor field, and I raise my eyes to the clouds in thanks to the overseers of nature for preserving this area of such cultural, historical and ecological significance.

The mile-and-a-half flashes by and my stroll ends at the marsh’s Kailua Road boundary. I turn and head back toward my car. Though I’ve just passed this way, the new vantage point gives me the feeling that I’m seeing the marsh afresh. A mommy duck waddles in my direction through the waterside shrubbery, a string of babes in tow. They disappear into the tightly cropped foliage and then emerge cutely, little stumbling fur balls. A nearby duck chase elicits a flurry of movement accompanied by a lot of quacking and feathers aflutter, as others join in or scatter aside, across the rippling water. I’m thankful to be privy to this eruption of fowl drama ― little do these creatures of instinct know how lucky we all are that they have the habitat to engage in it.

TRAIL: Kawai Nui Marsh Trail

LENGTH: 3 miles round trip

HOW TO GET THERE: From Waikiki, get on the H-1 Freeway heading west. Take the Pali Highway (Hwy 61) exit and follow it as it becomes Kalanianaole Highway (Hwy 72), and then becomes Kailua Road (Hwy 61). As you enter Kailua proper, take your first left onto Kainehe Street, and a second left at Kihapai Street. At the intersection with Kaha Street, turn left and go the short distance until Kaha Street dead ends at Kawai Nui Neighborhood Park.

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07/08/21 – Maunawili Falls Trail, trailhead, to close for two years for long-term improvement project

“Show me a waterfall!” is the recreational battlecry of many a visitor to Oahu. After all, tropical paradises are synonymous with rainbows and waterfalls. Oahu does boast plenty of rain-fed, spurting beauties, but unlike some of the other Hawaiian islands, none of them offer drive-up viewing. A thorough deluge will leave the Ko‘olau range awash in a spectacle of gushing cascades, but to actually submerge in a fall-fed, cool mountain pool, the most accessible is Maunawili Falls. Because of that, weekends find the trail flooded with foot traffic.

Areas of the path resemble a lava mudflow because of the steady stream of slip-sliding feet that wear away at the vegetation. Some sections of the trail are so wet that they trickle with running water and puddles. Nevertheless, the greenery is satiating, as is the stream that runs alongside much of the trail and which necessitates a few crossings. Yoga lessons come in handy here, because hopping those rocks is a test of balance. Sometimes I take my shoes off to relish the feel of the flowing stream and the coldness of the rough rocks, but more often I wear amphibious shoes so I can trudge right through any mud and water without pause.

At the first crossing, the stream is wide and shallow, followed by an uphill climb. Arriving at a set of stairs signals that I’ve nearly arrived. Up, up, up I go onto a low ridge where the shady overhang suddenly opens to a sweeping view of the Ko‘olau range. Soon thereafter, I watch for a staircase on my left-hand side that descends into the valley. I’ve gotten lost in the past following random, small trails, but the correct path continues at the foot of the stairs at a boulder-strewn river that must be traversed to arrive at Mauanwili Falls. Some choose to carefully pick their way across the rocks. Once again, I slip my feet directly into the coolness and move right along.

Climbing out of the bank, a short, wet rock trail takes me to the prized pool that makes all the drudgery worth every trepidatious step. An echo of rushing water is heard before I actually see the white spout shooting forth into a wide, deep, welcoming pool overhung with giant ferns from millennia past. Just like I did when I was a kid, I swim to the far side of the pool, climb several feet up the side of the waterfall and then leap into the air. When the water envelops me with a giant splash, in that moment, whether surrounded by crowds or just a buddy or two, I’m at the best place on earth.

TRAIL:  Maunawili Falls Trail
LENGTH: 2.5 miles round trip
HOW TO GET THERE: From Waikiki, take Kapahulu Avenue to H1 West. Take the Pali exit (Highway 61) and follow the Pali through the mountains as it turns into Kalanianaole Highway. Pass Auloa Road on your right, and turn right at the second Auloa Road. At the fork, veer left onto Maunawili Road and keep going until you reach a residential neighborhood. You’ll see signs for the trailhead on your left.

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Each time I subject myself to Koko Crater Stairs, I swear I won’t ever do it again.

But the thrill of elevating myself 1,208 feet along 1,048 steps made of old railway ties (placed half a century ago to deliver supplies to the military lookout at the top) keeps me coming back.

The only thing that’s changed over the years is the sheer number of people who share my masochistic addiction.

I’ve got the drill down. Pull into the parking lot as early as possible to avoid the day’s heat and the crowds. Unlike many of Oahu’s shaded trails, this one is glaringly out in the open.

In fact, look left at the great Koko Crater peak as you circle Kalanianaole past Hanauma Bay. A gash runs up the side of the mountain, dotted by a multitude of colorful specks. They’re the dozens of new and faithful climbers tackling a sure view-dazzler and knee-crusher.

At the far end of the parking lot, I join the pilgrimage of exercise devotees eager to commune with glorious nature, austerity and all. We trail up a dirt path to an old dirt road that lands me right at the foot of the gauntlet. Actually, standing at the base, the hill looks doable ? like a quick, five-minute sprint straight up. I start zipping along and am instantly out of breath. Then, I catch up with the masses. There are folks playing loud music that just doesn’t fit the drum beat I’m jamming to. Smells accost me … cologne, shampoo, soap. Remaining focused amid these external impositions on my meditative foot-above-foot climb is perhaps more of a challenge than the physical effort itself.

Then I hit the infamous drop off. The earth falls out from under the railway ties halfway up the hill, forming a bridge with giant gaps where you can see the ground far below. The legs get shaky and any pause in my steady pace leaves me with a touch of vertigo. Others quickly bend down and begin to crawl, while some circumvent the bridge altogether by taking a side path to the right on steady ground.

Past the bridge, the earth rises at an almost vertical angle forcing me into a pattern: 15 steps, then a minute to catch my breath, then upward again. All about me, bodies are in various states of sitting, kneeling and otherwise panting by the wayside.

The final steps are sheer relief. Then, I spend 30 minutes exploring the various vantage points for catching glorious views of the inside of the crater and of the surrounding mountain ranges and pure blue ocean. Koko Crater rim is a mecca for fitness fanatics, and a bit of a circus too. Two ladies at the top are over-enthusiastically doing 100 squats, then 50 pushups and so forth. A camera crew, filming for a fitness reality show, surrounds another colorful and very buff character. Then there are folks who run up and down the behemoth every morning and the guy who does it four times in a row every weekend. Oahu’s famous “backward runner” Shadrack Anderson is there … running up backwards, of course. There’s a guy emerging at the top effortlessly. He’s carrying a five-gallon water bottle, and it’s full! Two young men, perhaps military, are running up with their large dogs, only the dogs aren’t doing any running – they’re perched on each man’s shoulders.

Yes, it’s a circus. What an entertaining way to usher in the weekend. But what goes up must come down, and that’s the doozy. The only way for me is to run it. I am down in a third the time it took me to go up, but my knees are so wobbly that I must keep my torso from tumbling to the ground as I move unsteadily back to my car. This time, instead of swearing never to do it again, I contemplate how much I’d love to make the Koko Crater climb every morning.

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The jaunt follows a series of switchbacks up the side of the mountain before finally approaching a ridge line saddle. The strain of my efforts is instantly washed away by a cooling rush of wind that whispers up through the trees and gushes over me. I follow the main trail as it bends to the left and enters a thick grove of Cook pines before depositing me at the base of a red dirt hill which I climb to arrive at a covered bench. A short breath-catching rest and an energy bar prepare me for the final climb to the peak. When I was younger, I’d sometimes turn back at this point, but the real excitement begins just past the bench.

Once I step beyond that resting zone, it’s a steep climb straight to the top. A root-riddled scramble leads to a second bench offering the first panoramic view that stretches over Kuliouou valley out to the sea. Then comes a distinct gnarled archway, woven by banyan branches, that I duck through as I head toward a thin ridge where the views become exponentially more and more beautiful. At this point, a decade or so ago, I once faced a sheer toe and finger scramble up a dirt, or often mud, face until some well-placed ropes aided my way. Now, hikers have the luxury of stairs ? yes, a relative luxury ? and more and more stairs, before finally arriving at a bald plateau. The committed effort makes arrival at the top that much more rewarding.

Standing at that pinnacle, two urges overwhelm me. One, to stand in quiet, subdued awe. The other, to make like an opera singer and fill my lungs to bursting so they can pipe my ecstasy into the valley below, and as my voice reaches a trilling crescendo, I leap, swoop and soar out over the all-encompassing glory of East Oahu. Over the wide beaches and farmlands of Waimanalo, along the stretching Kailua coastline, out to the jutting Kaneohe peninsula, and over to the right, lifting above the majestic Koko Crater and hovering over the ocean marina and channels that finger their way into the Hawaii Kai landscape. My inner singer fills my head as I gaze. I never took opera lessons and I don’t have hang gliding equipment, so I simply stand in mute awe.

TRAIL: Kuliouou Ridge Trail
LENGTH: 5 miles round trip
HOW TO GET THERE: From Waikiki, take Kalanianaole Highway toward Hawaii Kai. In Hawaii Kai, turn left onto Kuliouou Road. Take a right at Kalaau Place and park toward the end of the road. The trailhead is just beyond the cul-de-sac.

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View from Aiea Loop Trail. (Photo Courtesy of Adam Sparks)

Today, I’m moseying along preparing to hike the only trail on all of Oahu — Aiea Loop. I say “only” because it happens to be the trail my mother always took me on, so in my small kid world, it was the only one that existed.

Sometimes she’d stay at base camp relaxing and pay my brother and me a few bucks to run the five miles so that we could get our daily exercise.

Once my brother made a wrong turn and found himself utterly lost.

Right when my mom set into panic mode, he surfaced from the trees, panting and wide-eyed about the group of hunting dogs he’d encountered.

Back to the present day: I’m wending my way along my old familiar path, when I make a turn and my hair bristles.

Is that … A BEAR?! Wait, two … what is that?

By the time I realize what is in front of me, a large family — grandparents, aunties, uncles, teenagers, smaller kids and all — has gathered behind me, and just as shocked, they whip out their dozen or so smartphones to capture the Nat Geo moment.

We are all eye-locked on two wild pigs in the heat of love’s embrace.

Even some grunting and interference from their three piglets doesn’t faze the unabashed, mucky oinkers.

“This is X-rated,” giggles one of the teens. Amused, the adults have the group move on.

I, too, move on, setting out on my own amorous pursuit by following a memory-filled trail.

A light ascent reaches a lookout point distinguished by veins of roots rising from the earth.

The generally muddy ground feels more like damp clay under my bare feet. I revisit all the familiar scenes: a tunnel of strawberry guava saplings, a cluster of paper bark trees, hills alive with springy ferns, a mammoth rock that requires scrambling over. In a grove of fresh eucalyptus, I open my lungs to their fullest, occasionally ducking under fallen forest giants obstructing the path.

View of H3 from Aiea Loop Trail. (Photo Courtesy of Adam Sparks)

I feel carefree as a child until I hit the halfway mark with a view of H3.

This used to be the most remote stretch of forest on the path.

Now, the great, curving arch of one of the most expensive highways ever built rises from the otherwise pristine valley, a breathtaking scar.

Built across environmentally and culturally sensitive grounds, the sight of this historical monument wrought in controversy, weighs with me as my legs move on, descending through moister climes to a small stream. Then comes a steep ascent and the previous expanse of tall-treed forests and wide paths becomes narrow and dense before depositing me back to my starting point, where the conjugal bower between swine took place.

I’ve been cautious with my naked feet the entire time, aware of my every step.

As I pass over a dead leaf, I wince and squeal. It’s a sharp pain I know all too well. A wayward bee has found itself the recipient of all my weight, and I, the recipient of its angry reply. I hadn’t felt that throbbing pinprick since I was a kid, constantly losing my slippers, climbing trees and running around barefoot, much to my mother’s chagrin.

Nature has been out in full force today, with keen reminders of my childhood on the one and only hiking trail in all of Oahu.

But the entangled pigs really take the mud cake.

AIEA LOOP TRAIL

• Length: 4.8 mile loop
• How to get there: From Waikiki, take H1 heading west. Follow signs for H201 toward Aiea. Merge off of the interstate onto Moanalua Road, and turn right at Aiea Heights Drive. Follow the road into Keaiwa Heiau State Park. Continue driving along the one-way loop to top of the hill. Park near the restrooms and follow the signs marking the trail head.

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Even though I’d been in Hawaii 20 years or so, it was my Russian friends, new to Paradise, who dragged me to hike the Makapu’u Lighthouse trail. They were intent on exploring every part of the Island of Oahu, while I only sought out the paths less traveled. As it’s one of the most popular POIs on the Island, I had been avoiding the Lighthouse. I didn’t want to struggle with parking and walking room on a path populated with families, strollers, pooches and camera-clad sightseers. How utterly unadventurous and absurdly naïve of me.

That virgin undertaking at the southeastern-most point of Oahu, and I’m hooked, line, sinker and all! I revel in the crowds and excitement on the trail, and parking is easy with recent improvements by the state. Here’s why this trail holds such a draw. It’s not the Lighthouse, because you only see the picturesque structure crowned in red and the white fence leading up to it from a distance. The hike actually wends it way to the top of a hill, bypassing and rising above the off-limits path to the Lighthouse itself. What’s attractive about the hike is: One, it’s a short ascent, just under a mile. Two, the view at the top is breathtaking, of the scenic shoreline of Makapu’u beach stretching toward the North Shore, of southeastern Oahu including the inside of Koko Crater with its distinctly eroded lip, and of off shore islands, crystal tide pools and waves breaking dramatically against the base of the cliff far below. Three, there’s great fluke-slapping, geyser-spouting, wondrously breeching aquatic giants in them thar waters below. Yes, whales!

The stunning Ka Iwi shoreline is now my most frequent morning outing. The wide, paved path is lined with cactuses and windblown brush. As you round the bend for the final stretch to the top of the hill, look up to the left and see a number of WWII pillboxes peaking out of the landscape. Toward the summit, marked by two lookout points, a plaque is dedicated to nine naval aviators who crashed into the hillside in 1942. Meanwhile, the entire stretch offers gorgeous, show-stopping views of the coast and the dreamy, deep blue sea stretching to the horizon.

On this particular day, I’m scouting for humpback whales, which can be spotted in the waters December through May. It’s not a good sign when I’ve reached the top with nary even a spout sighting. The hoard at the lookout, well-equipped with binoculars and telescopic lenses are taking their last disappointed glances when someone screams and points, and we all collectively gasp.

As if on cue, one of our sought after mammoth sea mammals has gracefully risen, its entire body rocketing upward and landing in a grand and glorious slow motion body slap in the deep cliffside waters just below us. But our second collective gasp is even more pronounced. From the shadows of the larger figure, a much smaller black silhouette has just risen and is mimicking the movements of the larger one. It’s a mama and her calf, and the lot of us stand magically glued to the pair for perhaps an hour as they play, with the mommy seemingly teaching her baby all the the right moves. Mom slaps her tail and baby follows. Then comes a large pectoral fin slap, with a reverberating echo that reaches our ears, followed by the softer echo of a tinier pec slap. There’s head slaps and full breaching arches. It’s a firework-packed show, with more twirls and frolicking and splashing than I’ve ever been treated to up on my front row perch. Hana hou mama and little one, hana hou!

TRAIL: Makapu’u Lighthouse Trail
LENGTH: 1.5 miles round trip
HOW TO GET THERE: From Waikiki, take Kalakaua Avenue to Diamond Head Road. Follow the signs for H1 freeway going east. H1 quickly turns into Kalanianaole Highway. Go past Hawaii Kai, Hanauma Bay, Sandy Beach and Hawaii Kai Golf Course. About a mile past the golf course, turn right onto   Makapuu Lighthouse Road, entering an open gate marked by a sign that reads “Ka Iwi Scenic Shoreline.”

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It was also the neighborhood hangout for adventurous teens when I was growing up. Our stomachs lifted to our throats as we swung off ropes or plummeted from various levels of cliffs (one 40 feet high) into the dark, cool waters. The place still attracts adrenaline-seekers, particularly on weekends, so I chose a recent weekday morning to revisit my childhood haunt. The stroll to the modest 15-foot waterfall begins at a nondescript clump of tall, dry grass. A few steps in and I’m enclosed in a thick forest canopy that makes Pali Highway and busy Nuuanu Avenue, which are just yards away, suddenly belong to another century.

A clear path happens upon clusters of rocks that demand clambering over on all fours. Ancient Hawaiian petroglyphs can be seen just several feet into the path in a small cave on the left, protected by metal bars. Once an obtrusive wall of grass obstructs the path, part it with both hands and trudge right through, even as bits of detritus land in your face, because the large pool, waterfall and cliffs are just ahead.

The place has seen some wear-and-tear since I was a kid, with some of the prominent trees in the area, which we used to swing from, having long ago succumbed to decay. Particularly noticeable is the graffiti that’s run amok over a pile of boulders fronting the Falls. That quickly time warps one back to the present century. It’s still a fun oasis in the middle of Honolulu city, whether as a quiet, reflective stroll on a weekday, or a lively place with shouts and splashing water as youths fling themselves off the highest cliff, trying to out-stylize each other with every manner of creative leap.

TRAIL: Kapena Falls Trail
LENGTH: .5 miles round trip
HOW TO GET THERE: From Downtown Honolulu, go up Nuuanu Avenue, turn right into Nuuanu Memorial Park and Mortuary. Follow the road as it winds to the right toward a small traffic circle and then heads left, ending in a small parking lot. The unmarked trailhead is at the dead end, on the left.

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After several years’ absence, I brought along a hiking buddy, a barefoot enthusiast (“It’s soft and muddy, your feet will love it,” I remember coaxing) to revisit my childhood haunt. Boy, were we both in for a surprise.

We had set out on a sunny morning boasting picture-perfect blue skies, but as we parked at the back of the valley, darkly bruised skies crawled over the mountain and we had to wait out a tropical downpour in the car. The fall through spring months bring wetness, but the upside is that it means a heftier waterfall.

We headed out under dripping foliage, my partner tiptoeing along the pebble-strewn asphalt that as you step onto the path quickly turns to large chunks of newly minted gravel, meaning the cut is fresh and sharp. Under hiking shoes, it crunches unobtrusively, but under bare feet the opposite end of the body emits a lot of groaning and yelps. In fact, the entire body kind of curls up, the shoulders hunch over, the knees bend deeper as the face grimaces and the feet quickly take turns popping up as if they’d landed on a hot iron.

I knew the beginning of the trail was kept maintained and laid with gravel, but 10 minutes later my buddy was still wincing with every step. Suddenly we saw a familiar sight approaching us from the opposite direction: A man bent over yelping and gasping as he inched along – his feet naked as the day he was born! We had a misery-loves-company chuckle until he mentioned that the gravel continues right up to the foot of the waterfall. The great news for the rest of us is that the recent “improvement,” keeps the trail well-marked and mud-free.

The gravel guides you from the trailhead over a bridge into dense greenery where speckled light filters through the overhang onto the shady path, and even on a hot day breezes sweep through the leaves. Guava and wild ginger sweeten the air and the sound of a gushing brook follows your gradual ascent. When you approach manmade stairs that lead to a boardwalk through a bamboo thicket you’re nearly there. By the time you hear the cascade rushing down its steep 100-foot rock face you’ll practically be standing in front of it. A cable now keeps visitors several feet from the pool itself after a massive rockfall in 2002.

Amazingly, only a handful of families trickled by during my leisurely stroll to Oʻahu’s most accessible waterfall. For minimal foot traffic and more impressive fall viewing, go when it’s rainy. And save the barefoot experience for another trail.

TRAIL: Mānoa Falls Trail
LENGTH: 1.6 miles round trip
HOW TO GET THERE: Take McCully Street out of Waikīkī and turn right onto Kapiʻolani Boulevard. Turn left at University Avenue. Follow University Avenue as it turns into Oʻahu Avenue. At a five-point intersection, veer right onto Mānoa Road. After passing Waakaua Street, find free parking along the final residential stretch of the street. It’s a .4 mile walk to the trailhead. Otherwise, continue driving along Mānoa Road and follow the signs for $5 parking on the right hand side. After parking, continue following the road toward the mountain. At a fork, veer right toward a fence with signs marking the Mānoa Falls trailhead.

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